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MAYOStanding on the edge of Croaghaun, it was difficult to believe that I was now on the edge of the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles, where the mountain suddenly comes to an end and falls 1,950 feet to the sea in a series of vast, rocky, partly grass-grown slopes. It was difficult to believe because beyond twenty feet in any direction, up, down, or sideways, it was impossible to see anything at all. All I could hear was the sea sighing far below, and the dismal crying of the gulls.Roads and accommodation: the areas directly north and south of Clew Bay have few towns and not many villages; not unexpectedly, the road network is rather rudimentary. The minor roads running north from the Newport to Mulrany section of the N59 access the best of the area. Achill has much holiday accommodation but is not well situated for areas other than the island itself and perhaps Corraun. Newport and Mulrany are small towns close to the Nephins. There is a beautifully located youth hostel in these mountains. Westport is a good centre for the area around Clew Bay and not badly situated for South Mayo. Louisburgh is quite convenient to Croagh Patrick and much of South Mayo. For South Mayo, Leenane (also spelt Leenaun), though tiny, is the best of the few centres and, as noted above, is served by express bus. It has the great advantage of being close to the mountains of Connemara, described in the next section. This area is not badly served by roads. The N59 passes close to the Partrys; the narrow R335 makes a scenic but tortuous route close to Mweelrea and the Sheeffrys and Ben Gorm to its east. The R336 passes along one edge of Joyce Country. There are few other motorable roads. Local bus services follow the outline of Clew Bay, but not as one route. A private bus company operates a weekday bus service on the section of the N59 north of Mulrany. Leenane is served by local buses, but not the South Mayo mountains directly north of it. Maps: most of this region is covered by maps 30, 37 and 38 in the Discovery Series. The major exception is the Nephins. The west of this range is covered on sheet 30. Sheet 37 is especially useful as it also covers a large swathe of Connemara. The half-inch sheets covering the area are sheets 6, 10 and 11, though if you have 10, 11 is hardly necessary. There are also uncontoured sketch maps in the "Bangor Trail Guide" and these show the Trail as well as an area of the Nephins not yet shown on the Discovery Series maps. Route 76: Achill Map 30 (1:50,000), Discovery Series. Start at car park at Keem Bay (F 562045). Climb south to derelict building at point 198 metres. Walk north-west towards Achill Head turning back at developing knife-edge. Descend left to saddle, between sea-cliffs and Croaghaun, containing small lakes. Climb Croaghaun, descend north-east, following cliffs on left to top of cliffs south-east of Bunnafreva Lough West. Descend to Lough Corryntawy and Lough Acorrymore. Take direct route (pathless) or road to start. Distance: 11 kilometres. Climb: 750 metres. Time: 3.5 hours. Route 77: South Nephins Map 6 (half-inch). Most of route is shown on map 30 (1 :50,000), Discovery Series. Start at Glendahurk Bridge (L 911979) by turning north off N59 about five miles west of Newport. Walk to Ben Gorm, then anti-clockwise on high ground to Corrannabinnia (point 2,343 feet, trig pillar) - steep ground to south and north-east of Corrannabinnia not adequately indicated on map. (Extension to Glenamong adds seven kilometres, climb 400 metres. Take care near cliffs on west of route.) Walk to point 1,437 feet, descend directly, picking up track towards start. Distance: 13 kilometres. Climb: 850 metres. Time: 4 hours. Route 78: East Nephins Map 6 (half-inch), but map 31 (1 :50,000), Discovery Series, when available. Start about one mile along minor road off R312 (about G 019087). Park considerately. Ford stream and climb spur south to Birreencorragh (trig pillar). Descend west, then take north-west spur to col south-east of point 920 feet. Walk down track/road to start. Distance: 10 kilometres. Climb: 550 metres. Time: 3 hours. The next 'Mayo' extract can be found here : Part 4 The previous 'North Connaught' extracts from Walking Ireland's Mountains can be found here:
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